My family and I recently went on a beach vacation at a spot
we’ve been going for several years, having started this yearly sojourn when we
still lived in New York.
In fact,
it’s not a particularly arduous place to get to from New York, but from where
we live now the trip seems counterintuitive at best. It’s full of Italians from
the Bronx, so it’s an easy place to slip back into, even for my
non-Italian-American husband, who has nevertheless lived among
Italian-Americans for a good part of his life. I suppose we keep going back
because not only the place, but also its ethos, are so familiar to us, but we
can’t help viewing it, now, from something of a critical distance. Or maybe I
should say, in my case, from something of a heightened critical distance,
because I’ve never been a great one for the beach, and I’m starting to realize
that I’m not a great one either for that elusive pursuit of that intangible
essence that people know as having fun.
The truth is, I go to the beach, and I see the crowds
evidently enjoying themselves as they tan or read or drink or body-surf, and it
unsettles me. I always want to
leave before everyone else, because I hate the feeling of having stayed too
long, and having to leave as the sun is setting, and you’re hungry and a little
dazed from the sunshine and covered with sand, and you have to schlep your
chairs, umbrella, and cooler back to where you’re staying. Anyone, I’m sure,
would want to collapse under these circumstances, but I also want to cry. There’s something so brittle about it –
all the forced merriment in the bright sun, the making the most of the last
days of summer – and it makes me sad. I had the same feeling recently at one of
the big events I’m occasionally constrained to attend with my husband for his
work. Having to wear a cocktail
dress and attempt something sophisticated with my still-graduate-student-looking
hair, to drink and dine with prominent citizens of my new town, and to dance to
the same band that plays the same music at every single one of these events (and I
actually happen to think this band is very good) sent me halfway toward despair
and rushing to the confessional the next day. I told the priest, who knows me,
and who had, incidentally, also been in attendance the previous night, that I
felt as though I'd been watching everyone dancing before a yawning chasm into
which Death was pushing them unawares, and was this normal, or did he think
that maybe I needed some antidepressants?
He didn’t address this last question directly, but I
sometimes wonder if my relationship with God is just not meant to be one of
those joyful ones that I’ve heard about all my life.
I truly believe that not everyone is meant to know that kind
of joy in a place that is, after all, known officially in some quarters as
“this vale of tears,” and so sometimes I wonder why everyone is trying so hard;
after all, the "ego" in "et in Arcadia ego" is commonly
understood to be death. But some people are surely meant to struggle more, to
swim more arduously upstream, than others, and I am either one of them or else
am hopelessly neurotic.
Nonetheless, I pray St. Ignatius’s
Suscipe each morning upon waking,
because I can’t help but feel that I am so steeped in my difficult past that
its color has seeped into my very bones and tinted them the darkest of blues.
Here is a mélodie by Debussy, “Chevaux de bois,” number 4 of
his song-cycle Ariettes Oubliées, a setting of a poem by Paul Verlaine about a
fairground carousel which in some ways echoes my feelings about the beach and
summer vacation in general.
Turn, turn, good little wooden horses,
turn a hundred times, turn a thousand times,
turn often and turn always,
turn, turn to the sound of the oboes.
The child in red and his mother in white,
the boy in black and the girl in pink,
One in pursuit, and the other striking a pose,
each of them pays his Sunday penny.
Turn, turn, horses of their hearts,
while all around your turning
the sly pickpocket is watching --
turn to the sound of the victorious cornet.
It is astonishing the way it intoxicates you
to keep turning around in this stupid circle,
empty stomach, aching head,
feeling sick and yet having loads of fun.
Turn, wooden horses, with no need
of spurs
to command you to gallop;
turn, turn, without any hope of hay.
And hurry, horses of their souls--
Already night is falling, calling to supper
the troops of jolly drinkers, made hungry by their thirst.
Turn, turn! The velvet sky slowly begins
to clothe itself in golden stars.
The church bell tolls sadly.
Turn to the happy sound of the drums.
(Above: Detail from Guyhot Marchant’s Danse Macabre des Femmes, 1491.)